I found this yesterday in a local sale bin. Though I’m no fan of American history, this was too good to pass up.

The shots in this book are presented n red-cyan anaglyph, converted by the authors from the original stereo pairs to different result. Most of the shots render beautifully when seen through 3D glasses, with a few bad apples that may cause dizziness and migraine.





Went to Boracay over the weekend to attend a wedding. I took this as an opportunity to bring along my trusty Nishika N9000 lenticular 3D camera. Here are a few shots from the beach, both in stereogram and wigglegram. (red-cyan anaglyphs to follow)




Among the cameras I brought to Beijing was a Nishika N9000, one of two 3D lenticular toy cameras I currently own. For the most part, the Nishika stayed in the hotel room as I opted to take only two cameras (out of five) at a time during our daily forays, and I had a hard time giving up my Oly rangefinder and PEN S. For our trip up the Great Wallof China, however, the Nishika was a definite must.

Like the Nishika N8000, the N9000 takes four half frame photographs simultaneously. You can take those frames and  process them in Photoshop and Stereophotomaker to produce 3D photos, either anaglyph or stereo pair. I managed to find time today in the middle of my workday to process a couple. It took me a while because I haven’t done this in so long, I kind of forgot my workflow. For shame.

Anyway, here’s a couple of shots in both anaglyph and stereo pair. I’ll add more as I process them.  Still have several rolls of film to go through, so expect a few more chapters from this Beijing trip.

Here’s some shots that are a bit overdue for posting, taken last April in New York City with my Nishika N9000 3D lenticular camera.

I like that, with 3D anaglyphs, I can float my text within the photo’s depths. I’m also loving Kodak’s BW400CN film, though I’ve been told by the local Kodak rep that this has been phased out recently. I only know of one store that still has stocks – pricey, but methinks I shall buy whatever’s on their shelf. Good thing Ilford has a substitute in its XP2 Super.

It’s been almost two months since my grand trip to the US and I’ve yet to sit down and seriously sort out the photos from the 38-odd rolls of film I shot during the month long cross-country vacation. Tonight I started processing the rolls shot with the Nishika N9000, converting them from scans to animated wiggle 3D video snapshots.

Here are three so far.

Samuel Adams

Samuel Adams isn't just a beer.

Benjamin Franklin's Tomb

Benjamin Franklin's Tomb

Corner Cat

Corner Cat

I’ll work on the other Boston shots as well and just add those to this entry.

Let me know what you think!

Camera Creative

I was browsing the photography section at a local bookstore this afternoon when I stumbled upon a freshly stocked book titled Camera Creative. Written by Chris Gatcum, a former editor at What Digital Camera?, the book is a compilation of all the quaint tricks and techniques I’ve been dabbling in for the past few years – false tilt shift photography, light painting, lomography, plastic lenses, digital cross processing and then some.

Over four chapters, Gatcum describes 52 techniques/projects covering creative shooting, lens and accessory tricks, DIY lighting gear and the dark arts of digital post processing. Included are features on toy cameras and Holga hacks as well as el cheapo stereo photography, yay!

In the eight hours that I’ve owned this book I’ve only been able to read a few pages, but from what I’ve seen so far, Camera Creative is a great jump-off point for folks who like going against the grain. This isn’t a book for everyone, but the stuff in here will most definitely add a new unexpected dimension to your photography, if you apply the lessons well.  There’s a lot of cool things to try out.

As for me, I can’t wait to have a go at TTV photography. TTV stands for Through The Viewfinder, where you mate your digital camera to a TLR and shoot the image that appears on the TLR’s viewfinder. Such a cool hack, methinks. Will definitely post results once I build my “contraption” (it seems this is what the TTV community calls the DIY interface) and shoot. Meanwhile, here’s a TTV flickr group to keep you occupied.

If you’ve got a bookstore near you, give it a look. Otherwise, there’s always

Last week a reader dropped me an email asking how I create “wiggle 3D” animations from my lenticular camera photos. He’d recently bought a Nishika N8000 package complete with flash, case and Vincent Price video and was eager to try his hand at it. Here, then, for all you Nishika users out there, is my workflow.

Step One: Create Individual Frames

The Nishika N8000 produces four frames simultaneously, each one slightly different from the others due to how its four lenses are angled. I usually get my scans back from the developer like this:

After post-processing (which I won’t go into), select and copy each of the four frames and save them as separate images. Just save them as jpg as these will be for Web use. Organize them into proper folders so you don’t clutter up your directories.

Step Two: Stack Frames

From the FILE menu, select SCRIPTS, then LOAD FILES INTO STACK. This opens your four frames as layers in a single image file. Make sure not to select “Attempt to Automatically Align Source Images.” We’ll be doing that manually in the next step.

Step Three: Align Images

Once the image opens, make sure your stacked layers are in the proper order. Select an anchor point from which to align each layer. I usually choose the subject’s eye or face. Play with the Opacity of each layer to make sure your alignment is correct.

Step Four: Crop Your Image

During the alignment process, you will invariably create gaps at the edges of your image. Make sure to crop your image accordingly.

Step Five: Animate Your Layers

Once your layers are aligned, open up the animation panel from your WINDOW menu. Click on the small pull down menu on the upper right of the animation panel and select “Make Frames from Layers.” This will create a four-frame animation 1-2-3-4. For smoother looping, copy frames 2 and 3 and paste into your timeline in this order: 1-2-3-4-3-2.

Step Six: Save for Web

From the FILE menu, select “Save for Web & Devices,” which allows you to save your image as an animated GIF. You may adjust the size and quality of your image before saving if you wish.

Here’s the finished product.

Rally in 3D @ Nishika N8000